The back story

The city of golden domes: reading Kyiv’s great sights

In depth·Kyiv

St Sophia’s and the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra on UNESCO’s list, the Golden Gate, St Michael’s and St Andrew’s, the Andriivskyi Descent down to Podil, and the memorial at Babyn Yar: how to read Kyiv.

The Great Lavra Bell Tower and the domes of the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra above the trees
The Great Lavra Bell Tower and the domes of the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra above the trees
Photo CreditImage courtesy of © Ввласенко · CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Kyiv stands on the high right bank of the Dnipro, and its great sights follow the line of the hills. On the upper plateau are the oldest: St Sophia’s Cathedral and, a few kilometres south, the monasteries and caves of the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra, inscribed together on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1990 and placed on its List of World Heritage in Danger in 2023. Between them run the old town’s streets, from the Golden Gate to St Michael’s; from St Andrew’s Church a cobbled street drops to Podil, the merchants’ town by the river.

The UNESCO city

St Sophia’s Cathedral, in UNESCO’s description, was designed to rival Hagia Sophia in Constantinople; it is the heart of the National Preserve “Sophia of Kyiv”. The Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra, the cave monastery on the hills above the river, is in its preserve’s words the largest museum complex in Ukraine, with 144 monuments of history and culture, among them two underground complexes; the preserve is open daily from 10am to 6pm.

The old town

Volodymyrska Street runs from the Golden Gate past St Sophia’s to the square in front of St Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery. From there the funicular, opened in 1905, runs down the hill to Poshtova Square.

Down to Podil

St Andrew’s Church, designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli in the eighteenth century, stands at the top of the Andriivskyi Descent, the cobbled street that winds down to Kontraktova Square and Podil.

St Sophia’s Cathedral with its green and golden domes, seen from the bell tower
St Sophia’s Cathedral with its green and golden domes, seen from the bell tower
Photo CreditImage courtesy of © Rbrechko · CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Memory

At Babyn Yar, on 29 and 30 September 1941, the occupying German forces murdered tens of thousands of Kyiv’s Jews; it is now the National Historical Memorial Preserve “Babyn Yar”. The National Museum of the Holodomor, above the river at Pechersk, commemorates the victims of the famine of 1932–33.

Museums close and visitors are asked to go to the nearest shelter during an air alert: plan the great sights for the morning and keep the afternoon loose.

Our advice: give the Lavra a whole morning, and wear modest dress: shoulders and knees covered, and a headscarf for women in the churches.

Why it's on our list

  • The UNESCO city
  • The old town
  • Down to Podil
  • Memory

Location

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